The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

80
Routes in archive
Rêve Caché
Rêve Caché - Pointe d'Androsace
5+ MR 4c
A logical, varied, technical, long and demanding route. This difficulties can vary considerably depending on the conditions and with its 700m in length it can be regarded as a mini grand course. The first section is a winding couloir with...
Rikiteppa
Rikiteppa - Grand Combin
WI4 M teppa?
The Ollomont valley with its mixed climbs is a true paradise; away from the more famous crowded areas, below Mont Vela and Grand Combin are a flurry of icefalls immersed in absolute tranquility. Rikiteppa is located immediately to the left...
Sento puzza di bruciato
Sento puzza di bruciato - Piccolo San Bernardo
AI5
Great mixed climb established on 31/01/2023 by the mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza.
Shampoo Dry
Shampoo Dry - Valle di Champorcher
M4 - M7
New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.
Sodoma
Sodoma - Grand Combin
II/5
Ollomont and its icefalls are a real paradise, immersed in absolute peace and tranquility beneath Mont Vela and Grand Combin, far removed from the better known areas in the Aosta region. Sodoma is a beautiful icefall with a truly exciting...
Sole
Sole - Aiguille de la Brenva
WI5, M6
Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva. Take gear to backup all belays.
Spirito di adattamento
Spirito di adattamento - Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort
WI5 X R, left variation WI4 M5
Spirito di adattamento climbs a gully up the east face of Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort. The climb was established by Denis Trento and Andrea Peron and a direct version was added by Trento with Marco Farina and Marco Majori.
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc
ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...
The day after
The day after
I/3 - II/3+
The wild and beautiful Valle delle Laures, located within the mountain comunity Monte Emilius, was one of the first areas to be developed by ice climbers, and the first icefalls date back to the early 1980's. The icefalls are...
Toxic Mushroom
Toxic Mushroom - Mont Noir de Peutérey
ED+, M8, AI 5+
A magnificent mixed climb with superb quality rock on the east face of the huge shield on Mont Noir de Peutérey. Every pitch is worth climbing and highly satisfying.
Tuborg
Tuborg - Gran Paradiso
II/4
Much repeated classic, almost always in condition. Tuborg receives the morning sun for a couple of hours.
Tutte le Guide del Presidente
Tutte le Guide del Presidente - Piccolo San Bernardo
TD+, M5+, AI5
Great mixed climb established on 31/01/2023 by the mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza.
Valmiana
Valmiana - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3
After a great first pitch the difficulties ease off somewhat. Watch out for avalanches.
Vertigine di Porcellana
Vertigine di Porcellana - Gran Paradiso
II/3 (D+)
Vertigine di Porcellana is a great classic, much repeated as it is almost always in condition.The icefall receives the sun for circa 1.30 hours and is recommended when there is little snow or the snow pack has settled since, like...
Wait and Bleed
Wait and Bleed - Gressoney St. Jean
II/ 4+/5, 5b, M5
The icefall is located in a gully just above Gressoney St. Jean, hidden up to today (perhaps) from indiscreet glances. Each of the three pitches of Wait and Bleed differ significantly from each other but each are particular and striking.
Zero 70
Zero 70
5/5+, II
Pleasing and beautiful line which rarely comes into condition, according to the first ascentionists this climb is not to be missed. The climbing is varied and the crux second pitch involves climbing past the fangs to reach the final, less...


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